Seville

Delayed waiting for the runway to be de-iced. Now, this is a first for me.
Guessing Gatwick Airport with its single runway might be susceptible to this kind of weather event in the depths of our UK winter, a sudden flurry of hail, a blast of snow and bingo, the whole place is closed down while they de-ice the runway. Finally, departing just fifteen minutes behind schedule, we made good time and eventually touching down ahead of schedule! Our bags appeared in a timely manner before we were picked up from arrivals as planned and whisked off through the Sevillian evening traffic to our cosy apartment near the Catedral de Seville. Quickly dumping our cases we headed back out in to the late evening to take a quick look around, eventually enjoying a couple of beers right outside our apartment door in the Bar La Cava. Seville looked amazing, lots of old buildings, heaps of charm and plenty to explore in our three day break.

Our first floor apartment was pretty much perfect for our mini-break, a good sized bedroom, functioning kitchenette and a bathroom that was a little tight on space, but worked just fine. Rented from Puerta de Cathedral who have several apartments scattered around the city, ours being in Calle Hernandez Colon, a stones throw from the North end of the Catedral de Seville.

First thing on our agenda was to sort out checking in, arriving late after their office had closed we had to tidy up the paperwork, adding a trip up to their roof-top terrace to view Seville…..

Once the paperwork was sorted we headed down to the Plaza de Espana, an arched shaped building originally built for the 1929 Ibero-Americano Exposition, now, nicely looked after and housing the Seville Civic offices. Quite beautiful and wonderfully built with many intricate detailings and colourful tiled alcoves depicting the various regions of Spain.

Enjoying the surroundings we walked through the Parque Maria Louisa, crossed the road and followed the Guadaíra river along to the La Real Maestranza one of the few remaining operational bull rings, then crossing the river in to Triana to take in the Mercado de Triana, which sadly seemed mostly closed. Although really ornate, it was only partially populated with stores and was a little disappointing. Expecting to pick up some lunch there, we had to scour the high street for something to eat, eventually deciding on the Taberna el Papelon, despite being one of many in Seville, the service was brilliant and the food was fresh and tasty.

When in Spain, do as the Spaniards do, so we took a well earned siesta.

Suitably refreshed we then hoofed it up town to see some mushrooms, a sight recommended by Mrs Y, but I have to admit this was something I was just going along with and had no real idea of what to expect. But this was quite simply stunning. The Metropol Parasol to give it its official name, is a giant structure of slotted wood that looks like a collection of mushrooms that dwarfs the surrounding buildings. For 3 euros you can take a lift to the viewing platform that snakes it’s way around the top of the parasol, giving you an unparalleled view over Seville, with the ticket price including a free drink or 1 euro off your bill and you can even exchange your ticket for a postcard in the giftshop.

All this exploration on foot you really do work up an appetite and after much deliberation we sat outside the Milagritos Tapas Bar where several plates of delicious tapas were enjoyed along with glasses of Sangria and Rioja. Our waiter was a delight too offering us suggestions and taking time to serve and chat. A well earned tip !!

After a quick circuitous walk back to our apartment, via La Abuela ice-cream shop for what turned out to be a pretty mediocre ice-cream, it looked really great, but tasted of nothing, we stopped once again for a night cap at the Cava Bar, were a plate of Manchego and crackers was washed down with a couple of glasses of Rioja.

And so to bed…

Our time of entry in to the Alcazar was 10:30, plenty of time to grab a light breakfast in Filo, just a few steps across the street from our apartment. Taking a set menu option of fresh orange juice, toasted croissant, homemade marmalade and butter and a hot drink, all for the princely sum of €4:90 each it started the day perfectly. Suitably fed we joined the crowds waiting to get in to the Alcazar.

Feeling mighty peckish after our morning exploring the Alcazar we set off to find lunch landing in a window seat in Gusto, a lovely looking, but what turned out to be characterless, eatery for a very tasty vegetable paella washed down with a very fine Rioja and a pot of mint tea. This certainly proved that style isn’t everything; the food was amazing but the service was awful – tourist money is good but being pleasant to them as well is perhaps a step too far!

And then, as the locals do in Spain, we took another well earned siesta.

Having enjoyed the Plaza del Espana we decided to revisit it again in time to enjoy the sunset, with it’s twin towers located at the North and South of it’s arc, the sunset drops right down the centre of the park opposite. On route to the Plaza we stopped for coffee, just to sit and enjoy the bustle of the city. The sunset was delightful, enjoying an impromptu flamenco performance from a few dancers who simply showed up, danced, packed up and rode off on their bikes, wonderful. Sitting in a sun warmed tiled alcove was delightful. Fully entertained we headed back to the nearby tram stop and picked up the tram back in to the city centre, for €1.40 each, it was a pleasure to ride.

Still full from our lunch time paella, we headed to the Cava Bar for a few plates of tapas and some Rioja and Sangria.

And that was the end of our second day.

Very lazy last day, slept in – forgoing breakfast – deciding insrtead to pack the cases over a second cup of tea. Fully packed we put our cases in the safe hands of the main office and headed out to the Catedral de Seville, sadly though the queue was way beyond what we were prepared to wait for, so we bailed out and headed off in to the tiny lanes of Seville for some last minute moseying around. Found some nice shops that we’d not seen before, nibbled on some second rate Chocolate and Churros and spent a while soaking in the orange scented atmosphere in a tiny plaza, such a treat to be able to enjoy blue skies and sunshine in February.

Tummies rumbling we dove in to Sevilles lanes once again on the search for food, finally deciding on La Subasta taking up their lunchtime offer of starter, main course, bread and a drink for only €12.90 each. Warm and friendly service and great food it was a delightful last meal in Seville.

Suitcases retrieved it was time to find the Aerobus stop in Calle Colon, across the road from the Torre del Orro, and waited for our return to the airport on route EA.

At just €4:00 each this is a swift and cheap route back to the airport. Nothing fancy, just a regular single decker bus with some extra racking for cases. Cheap and efficient, dropping you right outside the departure lounge doors.

Seville was lovely. Great atmosphere. Great food. I feel sure we will return.